Tag Archives: Sandro Villinger

Own a Mac? Well, it might need a clean-up too…

Well, believe it or not this is not always the case. As even the shiniest of sports cars need to go to a mechanic once in a while, your Mac needs to get a proper cleanup as, over time, its hard-drive can get cluttered.

In this article, we’ll dive deep into the data clutter that even the newest Macs accumulate after only a few days. I’ll talk about how much disk space you can regularly recover and how getting rid of clutter can improve your privacy and boost system reliability.

Let’s give your Mac a proper spring clean – throughout the year!

 

The daily data-clutter…

Here’s an unfortunate, little known, but true fact: Almost every time you use your applications, play a game or browse the web, your Mac collects data “junk”. This data is officially known as cache which is the data collected from errors and other system activity in countless log files.

Unfortunately, this data is hidden on your hard disk and can’t be easily deleted.

AVG Cleaner for Mac Cache

 

But it’s not just cache that you need to clean regularly. For most people, both the Download folder and the Recycle Bin remain the central store for all downloaded files (dmg images, old PDF files etc.)

This can easily amount to several Gigabytes if forgotten! It’s time to find out all about why your Mac’s disk may be bloated and how you can easily spot files that you didn’t even know were lurking on your hard disk.

 

A Quick Lab Test

We’ve analyzed the contents of some of our Macs internally with our very own AVG Cleaner for Mac, and found more than 14.3 GB of unnecessary files in various locations on a Retina MacBook Pro that we’ve been using productively for several months. An iMac® 27” which was purchased and used for just a few weeks for basic tasks such as surfing the web and light office tasks showed 1.3 GB of wasteful files.

AVG Cleaner for Mac Clutter

Digging deeper, we found that a huge chunk of this unnecessary data was located in the Mac OS® “Download” folder – a folder that we rarely cleaned up and that served mainly as a temporary storage for downloaded programs, audiobooks, videos, ISO files, and more.

What’s more interesting than how much disk space I could recover was the sheer number of unnecessary files on those machines:

AVG Cleaner for Mac Log Files

On the newly-bought MacBook Retina, I found 2,718 junk files – most located in the hidden user cache folder. The MacBook Air suffered from more than 1,101 unnecessary files. “So what’s with all that junk?” you might be asking. Basically the three most common trash types include….

 

Application Cache

Most applications that you actively use on your Mac create what’s called “cache” and “log” files. Cache files are helpful, as they’re sometimes known to speed up the application launch or boost web-browsing speed (i.e. the Safari® cache).

Unfortunately, a lot of apps don’t clean up their cache files when they’re no longer being used and this is when the cache gets out of control:

Old and corrupt cache files from previous app versions could cause errors when running newer apps.

Cache files could completely grow out of proportion.

Out of date cache files are forgotten on your hard disk and remain there forever, growing and growing….

We’ve dug deep into all the data trash found on these two machines to give you an example of how junk could affect your daily work (or gaming) routine…..

  • Uninstall leftovers
  • Font lists
  • Browser Cache
  • History Lists
  • Application images

These are just some selected examples of unnecessary cache files we found on our test machines. It’s wise to flush the cache every now and then (at least once a month) to either prevent problems or solve them effectively – even AppleTMitself recommends flushing the cache once in a while to troubleshoot your Mac. More on that below…

 

Log files

Next to cache files, Mac OS and a lot of applications tend to create log files. These contain protocols of crashes, when you started an application, when the last update occurred and so on. Most of the log entries have one thing in common, no one except professional developers or trained admins are able to get anything out of it.

  • Update logs
  • Crash files
  • General logs

Unless your IT admin wants to analyze your log files, there’s barely any need to keep them. We’ll show you how to delete them safely…

Download & Trash folder

As I mentioned above, the Download folder can accumulate Gigabytes of unnecessary files. Why? Because it’s your browsers default location for storing files. Even I, who cares a lot about disk space and cleaning up, forget to clean out the Download folder. To a lot of users, the Recycle Bin serves the same purpose….you delete files but just forget to go through it and delete unwanted stuff permanently.

 

AVG Cleaner for Mac helps you clean up all these unnecessary files in seconds. In the meantime, why not download it and give it a try today, it’s free!

Making your Android battery life go further

In this post, we’ll walk through not only how to limit your app resource use but also how to get the most out of your battery life, device performance, storage and data plan on Android devices.

This guide is for Android devices running Android 3.x or Android 4.x, including:

  • Smartphones (such as the Samsung Galaxy S5)
  • Tablets (Samsung Galaxy Note Pro, Nexus 7)

Please note that though many phone and tablet makers use Android, they tend to change the way things look and work. We’ll show you how it works on different systems, but if you can’t find an option for your exact device, don’t worry as many of the steps are the same for most devices.

 

Limit Notifications

Notifications are one of the most useful features of a smartphone. They give users the information they need to know at a glance. However, not all notifications are necessary and some cause the phone to be constantly active, increasing the drain on the battery and mobile data.

To turn off unnecessary notifications, you need to go into the Apps or Application Manager in your device settings. This will show you a list of all the apps you have running.

To turn off notifications for an app, such as Asphalt 8, tap on it and uncheck the Show Notifications entry.

 

 

Control Your App

Limiting notifications is just one way to reduce the impact an app has on your device. In each app’s settings you will find additional options and features you may want to turn off. We’re going to use Facebook as an example to show you how it’s done.

Ranked among the most resource-heavy apps, there are several things users can do to limit Facebook’s resources consumption. As with before, the first step is to go to the app’s settings page (via the settings page and App Settings):

From there you will see a number of features that will tax your device, such as:

  • Facebook chat: If you do not use the chat feature, you can turn it off and use the standalone Messenger app instead.
  • Refresh interval: Every hour, Facebook automatically downloads content in the background, even if you’re not using the app. This impacts battery life and data consumption. You can limit this to every four hours or turn it off completely.
  • Location: Facebook can use the built-in GPS of your device to determine where you are and include that data in posts you make. Disabling this feature can help save battery life.
  • Notifications: This is an alternative way to turn off the app’s notifications.

While this is specific to Facebook, many apps on your smartphone or tablet have similar settings. In general, however, you should watch out for any that look to involve background activity, such as “Refresh Interval” or “Background Refresh” and limit the use of built-in features such as GPS/Location and Bluetooth.

 

Free Up Space & Limit Mobile Traffic

Our top storage offenders often start off as small apps or games but collect temporary clutter over time, and swell in size. When this happens, the impact is not just on your device’s storage, which obviously declines, but also on your mobile data.

Many apps tend to download data in the background in order to be instantly available once you open them. The NYTimes app for example automatically downloads news stories to your devices every 24 hours – even though you may not read all of them.

Almost every app stores temporary files, cookies and other date in order to work. In our internal tests, we found that simply browsing through a typical Facebook timeline for roughly 60 seconds produced over 5 MB of temporary files. The NYTimes app created a cache of 10 MB when we watched a 20 sec video and opened one news post.

This cache can be deleted on either a per-app basis or automatically. In this next tip, we’ll show you two ways to limit the growing storage impact of apps.

Open up the Application Manager or App menu from within your Settings menu. Tap on an app, such as NYTimes or Facebook and hit the Clean Cache Button (screenshot to the left):

 

Doing this for each app on a regular basis can be quite time consuming, which is why AVG built the AVG Cleaner for Android app (screenshot on the right). It scans all apps for these caches regularly and allows for the cleaning of all cache files automatically or in bulk.

The only downside of cleaning a cache may be that information, for example a Facebook image, which has been loaded and cached, may need a few extra moments to load when you open it the next time.

 

Reduce Data Traffic

In some cases, an app will include settings which allow the user to limit the amount of data it downloads over Wi-Fi or mobile data and stores locally. Below we outline how to do that, again using the NYTimes app as an example:

Open up the app in question and tap on the three little dots in the upper right corner. Go to Settings. From here, you can turn off “Offline Reading” by tapping on Update Frequency and selecting Never (Manual). You can also turn off the Thumbnail Caching which downloads images of news stories so that they display faster if you open them.

 

There will be some people who do not want to limit their apps to work in a certain way and in some cases – like with games or video streaming – there’s no technical way to reduce the amount of battery consumption or mobile data usage. Which is fine – this is all about user choice. If you do choose to take action however, these general recommendations should help Android device users reduce the overall resource consumption so they can enjoy using their apps without limitation.
 

Turn down the brightness

These days, virtually all Android smartphones or tablets come with super high-resolution displays that are also extremely bright. While that may be great for browsing the web, sharing photos or playing games, these displays harm your battery life. Did you know for example that on some smaller tablets with high-resolution displays, a display set to full brightness is responsible for 80 percent of the entire power consumption!

If you’re not in bright sunlight, we would therefore recommend turning the brightness levels down to 50-70 percent.

 

Disable Connectivity

Your Android device is full of features that impact battery life. It is important to make sure they’re off when they’re not being used:

  • Wi-Fi: Nowhere near a wireless connection? Then turn off your Wi-Fi. Otherwise the built-in Wi-Fi receiver will constantly try to scan for networks – which can increase battery usage by more than 20 percent.
  • Bluetooth: Not using a Bluetooth headset or connecting your Android device to your car? Then this setting should also be turned off, otherwise it will continually scan for compatible Bluetooth devices, using up battery as it does so.
  • GPS: Your mobile GPS is probably one of the biggest power suckers there is. The built-in GPS antennas are really power-hungry, and if your GPS is turned on they continue to draw power even if you’re not actively using them – mainly thanks to the alarming number of apps that regularly use the GPS feature such as [Google Maps, Facebook or Twitter]…So if you’re at home or just don’t need to use any GPS, turn it off.

You’ll find the settings for all three features in your swipe down menu or under Settings. Go to “Wireless” (or “Wireless and networks”) and switch off the relevant feature when not in use. Note: GPS can sometimes be referred to as “Location-based services”.

 

Remove performance-sapping apps

Your Android device is much like your PC: the more apps you install on it, the slower it will get and the sooner it’ll run out of juice. It won’t happen with one app nor probably with five, but once you’ve installed a dozen – or hundreds – of apps, you’ll notice a significant slowdown. That’s because many apps run features even when you’re not using them. So how can you be selective about which apps you do and don’t want on your phone? There are tools that help you identify the worst offenders for performance and battery life.

Ours is the free AVG Cleaner 2.0 app. Here’s how it works as an example:

  1. Firstly, install the free app from the Google Play Store or the Amazon Kindle store and launch it.
    Next, go to the “App Uninstaller” page. This will list all your currently running apps.
  2. If you tap on the little blue arrow in the top right, you can then sort the list by:
    • App Usage: Shows the apps you haven’t used in a long time.
    • Battery Usage: This helps you identify the most power-consuming apps on your device.
      Data Usage: If you’re on a monthly data plan, every Megabyte counts. If you sort the apps by “Data Usage”, you’ll quickly find the top apps that are sucking up your plan.
    • Storage Usage: Running out of disk space? Then it’s time to look at the largest apps on your phone.

 

To uninstall an app, tap on it and hit “Uninstall”. You can even tap and select multiple apps so you can get rid of a batch at a time.

I hope these tips have been helpful to you and that they help you bring new life to your Android device!

7 Essential Tips When Transferring To A New PC

Before you decommission that old XP, Vista or Windows 7 machine, you must first make sure that you’ve saved everything you need and prepared it to be out of action.

In this guide, I’ll show you what you need to do to get all your stuff backed up and set up.

 

Don’t forget your files!

Windows has a great tool called “Windows Easy Transfer” which helps you easily move stuff from your old PC to the new one. Using an external drive, it collects files, emails, user accounts, and settings from your old PC. Here’s how it works:

Windows Easy Transfer

 

Windows Vista and Windows 7:

  • Insert a USB thumb drive or hard disk into your old PC.
  • Click on the Start menu and type in “Windows Easy Transfer” in the search box. You’ll end up with a pretty big “Windows Easy Transfer File from Old Computer.mig” file, which you need to save on to your USB.

 

Windows XP

If you’re old machine is Windows XP you will need to copy “Windows Easy Transfer” from your new PC. Here’s how:

  • Insert a USB thumb drive or hard disk into your new PC.
  • Select “An External Hard Disk or USB Flash Drive”. Go to “This is My New Computer” and click on “No”
  • Select “I Need to Install it Now”. This will copy Windows Easy Transfer to the to the USB drive so you can use it on your old XP machine.)

 

Save Your Bookmarks!

If you’ve had your old machine for a while, you’ve probably built a massive library of browser bookmarks or favorites. Make sure you take these with you by backing up your bookmarks.

Moving your Bookmarks

  • Internet Explorer: Go to “Computer” and simply open up C:UsersYOUR_USERNAME_HEREFavorites. Copy the entire folder on to your new PC! XP users will find it under C:Documents & SettingsYOUR_USERNAME_HEREFavorites.
  • Google Chrome: Chrome syncs your bookmarks once you’ve signed into your Google account. If you haven’t done so, sign into your Chrome browser on your old PC – and it will upload your bookmarks to the cloud. Do the same on the new PC to download the bookmarks again. Voilá!
  • Firefox: The fastest way is to use Firefox Sync, which backs up all your browser settings – including bookmarks – to the cloud and gets it to your new PC easily once you’ve signed in. Here’s how it works.

 

Clean Up Your Old PC!

When migrating to a new PC, you don’t want to transfer any unwanted files, so it’s important to give it a good clean up before you make the switch.

Probably the best way is to use AVG PC TuneUp’s Disk Cleaner which is part of our AVG Performance bundle – you can also try it out for free here. Disk Cleaner removes unwanted and junk files from over 200+ applications and Windows features, definitely things you don’t want on your new machine.

Click here for a step by step guide on how to clean up your PC with Disk Cleaner.

PC TuneUp Clean Up

 

Find Those Hidden Files!

Even if you’re super-organized and painstakingly keep your files and folders in order, there’s always that odd folder or file that floats somewhere hidden or deep on your hard disk.

Case in point: I recently save my best buddy’s wedding montage, but the tool I used stored it under “C:Program FilesVideo ConverterProjects”.  I would have totally forgotten about it, had I not used AVG Disk Space Explorer to get an overview of where music, videos, photos and more are stored on my disk….

AVG Disk Space Explorer

 

…but also where the “Top 100 files” are on my disk:

AVG Disk Space Explorer

 

And there it was, sitting hidden on a old laptop I was ready to completely wipe clean…

AVG PC Tune Up

 

Deauthorize your programs!

Some programs are tied to the computer they’ve been installed on, so you may not even be able to use them on a new PC unless you deactivate them on your old one.

Popular example: iTunes! It allows you to activate up to five PCs to play (protected!) content. If you forget to deactivate an account on a PC and wipe it clean or give it away, it’s gone and you’ll soon end up seeing this:

iTunes

To deactivate an old PC, simply open up iTunes and press the “CTRL” key. This will bring up the classic menu bar. Click on “Store” and “Deauthorize this computer”. Done!

Another example is the Microsoft Office 365 subscription, which allows you to install Office 2013 on up to five PCs or Macs, so you need to log in and go to your dashboard to deactivate the Office installs on your old PCs:

Microsoft Office 365

 

Don’t worry, many programs don’t have a limited number of licenses but it’s always worth checking – and keeping the old PC around for a few days while you’re setting up your old one.

 

 

Take a snapshot of your programs settings!

Got a complex program, such as Adobe Photoshop or Excel, perfectly set up for your needs? Then it’s a true pain to set it up and figure out your favorite settings. Here’s what I do: I just take a screenshot of my favorite settings and simply apply them to the new one.

For example, I just took a screenshot of my favorite settings in the video codec configuration tool Shark007 which I use to playback pretty much all audio and video files imaginable – and it’s complicated! So I just use Windows’ built-in Snipping Tool (just use the Start menu search and you’ll find it) to take a screenshot of the settings and apply them later. Sure, a bit crude and manual, but it works: 

Windows Snipping Tool

 

Don’t forget your savegames!

I recently wiped an old PC which had a 97% complete gamesave from my favorite game of 2011, Super Meat Boy. If you know the title, you’ll know just how frustrating that is!

That save game is gone and I never made it through the final stages. While many modern games save the gamestats under your “DocumentsMy Games” folder or synchronize them with the cloud (Steam, Origin), many games still hide the savefile in their program folder.

Game Sales PC TuneUp

If you spend 69 hours completing Far Cry 4 or any other game, you better make sure you don’t lose that savegame.  My advice if you can’t find the savefile: Google the games name and add “savegame location” and you will find a blog, a forum thread or a wiki that’ll show you where to look:

Far Cry 4 Save Game

If you follow these simple steps you can be sure that you’re not leaving anything behind on your old machine and that your new system will have that personalized, familiar feeling.

Next week we’ll look at breathing new life into your old PC.

Connect, Click and Clean with AVG Cleaner for iOS

From the day you first turn it on, your iPhone or iPad slowly accumulates hidden clutter that take up storage space and negatively affect performance, especially on 16 or 32GB models.

If you have an iPhone or an iPad and are struggling to find space for all your pictures, music or movies, or just want to make space to install the latest operating system, AVG Cleaner for iOS can help.

Since there’s no way for an iOS app to clean up that clutter, you have to do it from your PC.

 

How to clean up your iOS device:

  • Install AVG Performance 2015 from this page. Once complete, click on Performance to launch the 2015 release of AVG PC TuneUp.
  • From here, click on Clean up iPhone, iPad and iPod touch.
  • Hit Scan Now and have a look at the results. To clean up your phone, hit the Clean Now
Video

How To Clean Up Your iOS Device

 

Note: in case anything goes wrong, you can always go to Rescue Center and restore the files.

Don’t worry: All we clean are cache files, temporary files, age-old system logs and thumbnail files you will no longer need.

 

How much space can you get back?

Just how much space can you clear up using our AVG Cleaner for iOS? Well results for each device will differ but in our internal labs we found 340 MB of files on an iPhone 6 that was only four weeks old.

340 MB of junk files cleaneda 4 week old iPhone 6 7.5 GB of junk files cleaned on a 1 year old iPad Air 712 MB of junk files cleaneda 9 months old iPod touch

 

Don’t forget: you can’t clean up these files from your phone, you have to use AVG Cleaner for iOS as part of AVG Performance 2015.

So what are you waiting for? Unlock the hidden potential of your iOS device with AVG Cleaner for iOS now! Download AVG Performance today.

The Ultimate ‘Dying Light’ Performance Guide

I have to admit it, I got tired of zombies. After the Walking Dead craze, in the past two years, an endless amount of zombie movies, TV shows and games came out of nowhere.

For me, that genre got tiring quickly which is why I also ignored the latest hype around games like H1Z1, DayZ, Days to Die or the Resident Evil Remake. However, one game caught my eye: Dying Light. From the moment I saw the visuals and the gameplay mechanics in the trailer, I was hooked.

The parkour elements, the stealth action, the combat, the entire look and feel – it just captured me. But when I heard that many users are complaining about performance, I just had to write another performance guide!

More than Minimum Requirements

My first piece of advice is that you should largely disregard the minimum requirements as that will likely give you only a lackluster experience:

Minimum System Requirements

  • Processor: Intel Core i5-2500 @3.3 GHz / AMD FX-8320 @3.5 GHz
  • Memory: 4 GB RAM DDR3
  • Graphics: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 560 / AMD Radeon HD 6870 (1GB VRAM)

While testing that on my laptop (3.7 GHz, GeForce 650M) I found that I was getting less than 30fps at medium settings, while my gaming PC (Core i7, 3.8 GHz, GeForce 970 GTX) handled things a lot better – at the highest details.

However even on my gaming rig I was able to detect a slight stuttering here and there, which is why I put together a list of tweaks for Dying Light and was able to finally smooth out all the performance problems.

Realistically you need a GeForce 6 series, 8 GB RAM and at least 2.x GHz CPU to run Dying Light properly.

Dying Light

#1 – Start with the basics

Before you start tweaking performance settings for Dying Light, I recommend that you follow the 9 essential steps to boost your PC or laptop speed that I published a while ago. This covers the basic steps to get your machine in top shape, and including how to:

  • Upgrade your graphics drivers and even use beta drivers
  • Overclock your graphics card (safely!)
  • Use our AVG PC TuneUp to turn off all performance-sapping background activity
  • Defrag your hard disk

As Dying Light takes its toll on your hardware, you’ve got to be sure that it’s tweaked to its absolute limit before you jump into the game-specific settings.

 

#2 – Get Patch 1.3

As usual, getting the latest patch is always a bonus. Patch 1.3 is supposed to improve performance quite a bit, especially for GeForce GTX 970 users. However, the team is currently working on a patch to solve more deeper routed speed problems including:

  • Performance issues of systems based on the AMD processor
  • Freezes when using Nvidia DoF
  • Unsatisfactory performance on multi-GPU systems

Update 1.3 should be applied automatically once you launch the game over Steam or standalone. But please check back for an upcoming patch which will hopefully fix all the issues above.

Dying Light Main Menu

 

#3 – Reduce the View Distance

To almost double the performance of Dying Light, I’d recommend reducing the View Distance slider found in the graphics options (Options, Video) to medium or even low.

Sounds like the game is going to look bad? No, actually there was hardly any difference while the framerate on my gaming PC jumped from 35fps to almost 60 when playing with the lowest setting.

100% Viewing distance

Dying Light View Distance 100

 

5% Viewing Distance:

Dying Light View Distance 5

You can see that some minor details are missing in the background, particularly when looking at the trees and grass in the background, but it really doesn’t make a huge difference, given that you can double the framerate.

This has much more effect than turning off some of the beautiful visual effects like HBAO+/SSAO (which gives you a plus of 2-5fps at most if you turn if off).

Dying Light also supports “DoF” (Depth of Field) which blurs out parts of the image. You can easily see the effect in the main menu screen under tip 2 (blurry background).

The same goes for Foliage quality, which actually made a difference of just 3-4 fps on both of my machines – only turn this off (or set it to low) if you’re really struggling to hit an acceptable framerate. Because if you do, it’ll literally just remove some of the grass and bushes:

Foliage quality set to “High”

Dying Light Foliage

Foliage quality set to “Low” (never mind that zombie, he jumped over that fence and killed me five seconds later while I was taking screenshots for you – that’s dedication!).

Dying Light Foliage Low

 

If you’re noticing that your framerate goes down over longer periods of gaming time (e.g. 1-2+ hours), then you may want to lower the Texture Quality setting. Why? While it makes no visible difference up close, it defines how many objects are put into the VRAM of your graphics card.

If you lower it, less objects will be stored in your graphics card memory which could cause objects to stop popping in more frequently – but the overall game to run more smoothly.

 

#4 – Restore the Maximum Viewing Distance

With Dying Light patch 1.2.1, game makers TechLand decreased the maximum view distance by 35% overall: Eagle-eyed gamers with top-of-the-line gaming PCs (we’re talking GeForce 970 or 980s here), can manually override that setting.

However, you must first perfectly set up the graphics of your game as you will basically change a configuration file and make write-protect that file so that Dying Light won’t automatically revert to the lower view distance.

Here’s how:

Make sure that Dying Light is optimally configured and then exit the game. Open up “C:UsersUSERNAMEDocumentsDyingLightoutsettingsvideo.scr” using Notepad or a tool like Notepad++ and look for the word “VisRange”.

Change the value to VisRange(8.26, 8.26) which will restore the 100% visibility. Save the file!

Dying Light Viewing

Next, right-click on the file and select Properties. Check the Ready Only box and hit OK.

Dying Light Video Properties

 

If you want to tweak your settings from here, you need to undo the write-protect and later apply the VisRange tweak again before write-protecting the file again. A bit of a hassle, but beauty comes at a price, right?

 

#5 – Get the Game Ready Driver

At end of January, nVidia released a new driver specifically optimized for Dying Light which all users GeForce cards should install asap. Version 347.25 offers much smoother gameplay and adds support for the GeForce GTX 960 and a new Anti-Aliasing technique called MFAA (Multi-Frame Sampled Anti-Aliasing). ATI/AMD users should also look out for the latest drivers to ensure best possible performance.

 

#6 – Fix The Multicore Problems Yourself (experimental)

Until patch 1.4 comes out and offers a fix for the fact that Dying Light only uses one CPU core in some cases, you can try out this little tweak which helps on some systems.

Open the game and then use CTRL+ALT+DEL to open Task-Manager. Right-click on DyingLightGame.exe, go to Set Affinity, uncheck all CPUs and then re-check CPU 0.  Hit OK. Open the affinity window again and re-check all processors. The game should now use all of the cores and balance the load equally instead of taxying only one core.

 

#7 – Get the Dying Light Manager

On the web you’ll find a dozen or so tweaks which will help you disable the filmgrain effect, change sunlighting or disable some of the blur and coloration around objects or people in the game.

However, these require a lot of tinkering with the game files which is just annoying. Good thing there are modders out there like vismxownz who created the Dying Light Manager and Performance Booster (name is really the game here!).

Note, the MediaFire download may not work the first time – try the Try Again and Repair my download option in case that happens and it should work fine. It gives you a plethora of options to tweak some settings which will definitely help you boost performance of the game and which are not available in game:

Dying Light Manager

Extract the file and browse to the DyingLightGame.exe file on your PC, for example under C:Program Files (x86)Dying Light.

Some of the highlights include:

  • Filmgrain: While I personally think that the filmgrain effect adds a lot to the scenery and atmosphere of the game, I know a lot of people don’t like it. It also has a bit of a performance impact.
  • Sunlightering and Sunshadows: Whenever you look at the sun, you will see shadows and the coloration of the entire scene changes. This could be quite annoying in the middle of a hectic zombie fight, so some users may want to turn it off (and also gain a bit of performance!).
  • Chromatic Aberration: It essentially fakes a bad camera by adding a slight color bleeding effect to the edge of objects. Reddit user sadzora captured this quite accurately:

Dying Light Chromatic Abberation

It’s also quite a strain to performance. If you can live without it (and many users can), it should be turned off.

 

#8 – Enjoy!

I can’t wait to play this game, now optimized and running smoothly, this weekend. It will be pure joy! Were you able to run the game at its fullest? Do you have any other tweaks we missed? Let us know!

Grab Our Latest AVG PC TuneUp Update

Fresh off the press: Our engineering team has been working hard to deliver the latest version to the 2015 release of AVG PC TuneUp!

Released last November with improved cleaning capabilities and a new cleaner for your iPad, iPhone and iOS, this first major update (version 15.0.1001.331) doesn’t just provide the regular set of fixes but also greatly enhances cleaning functionality.

Let’s find out what’s new!

PC TuneUp

The new update brings more under the hood cleaning improvements for a cleaner, smoother working PC!

 

Greater cleaning for games and media editing programs

We know a lot of PC TuneUp users love to game or edit multimedia at home. That’s why they need our tuning tool to keep these resource-heavy applications running super smoothly and maximise the performance of their machines!

That’s why our Cleaning Definitions Team (who spend day and night looking at ways we can improve the speed of your computer) has identified 26 new and popular multimedia tools and looked for ways to remove the junk files these apps leave behind on your PC:

  • Audio tools: Ableton Live, ACID Music Studio, ACID Pro, Acoustica MP3 Audio Mixer, Adobe Audition, Audacity, Cakewalk SONAR, Expstudio Audio Editor, MAGIX Music Maker, Sound Forge Audio Studio, Sound Forge Pro, WavePad Sound Editor
  • Video tools: Alcohol 120%, Avidemux, AVS Video Editor, Blaze Media Pro, Magix programs, ManyCam, MoviePlus, Photo Pos Pro, Pinnacle Studio, Sony Movie Studio, Sony Vegas, VideoPad Video Editor, Windows Live Movie Maker, Windows Movie Maker

If you use any of these programs, you could benefit from the latest PC TuneUp update. Programs such as these handle many large files, which can leave behind logs and temporary  files that can quickly clog up your hard disk.

But that’s not all: We’ve implemented a fix that now helps our Browser Cleaner clean up the new cookie format in Google Chrome as well as the HTML5 file storage (see the help description):

PC TuneUp Browser Cleaner

 

However, in this release we’ve improved the cleaning mechanism for the popular platform Steam, making sure gamers get the best possible performance.

There’s a pattern in Steam, which causes large files to be stored in game folders. These files are often tools such as DirectX and usually only run when you first launch a game.

But once that’s done, you essentially don’t need these files anymore! Yet they remain in the folder. That’s why we’re cleaning up these files and you’ll benefit from all the extra space!

 

8 New Languages

We’ve seen so much excitement from around the globe for the new AVG PC TuneUp that we decided to translate the performance suite into even more languages: Danish, Chinese (Traditional), Hungarian, Indonesian, Malaysian, Turkish, Serbian (Latin), and Slovak. Simply download the file from our website http://www.avg.com/avg-pctuneup to get the version in your language!

 

So how do you get it?

Easy: Next time you start AVG PC TuneUp, you should get an update notification – just install your  free update!

If it doesn’t show up, go to “Help & Support” and click on “Check for Updates”.

How To Boost Your Home Wi-Fi Signal (Part 1)

Do you regularly lose connectivity to your Wi-Fi network at home? Are network speeds so low that it takes forever to even copy a simple picture or music file across your PCs – let alone stream video? In this two-part series, we are covering the most important lessons and tips for boosting wireless (WLAN) throughput across your home network. Ready? Let’s dive in!

Figure out the best possible router position

Have you wondered why your wireless signal is strong in some rooms and incredibly weak in others? It’s not only a matter of distance between your wireless router and your PCs or laptops. It’s also a matter of what objects (walls, doors, furniture, electrical equipment/outlets) interfere with a good signal.

In many scenarios, you will be able to boost wifi strength significantly by just repositioning either your router or the connected PCs slightly.
Now, the “Trial and error” method works eventually, but is a waste of time. To get the best possible location you need to create a visualization of network coverage across your home. Heatmapper, a free software for Windows, will do just that:

Click here to download Heatmapper (100 MByte). Note: A registration is required to download this free tool.

After installation, the program asks you if you’ve got a map of your map of your floor – no worries, if you don’t, you can create this heatmap based on a grid. Simply walk around your apartment or house with a laptop in your hand running Heatmapper. As you walk (slowly!), use the left-click button frequently as you walk. Walk through all the areas of your home left-clicking as much as you can.

When you’re done, right click and HeatMapper will create a map of your home, showing you where the Wi-Fi signal is stronger or weaker. Here’s how my map at home looks like:

The green area in the middle is also the center of my apartment – a good location for the router! However, in the bedroom (upper part of the screen) I only get „ok“ wireless strength because the router is blocked by three walls.

By looking at the heatmap, I quickly knew where to position the router in order to get a better Wi-Fi signal!
General advice: Make sure not to position the router directly on the floor or next to thick walls. Ideally, the best position is in the center (probably the corridor) of your apartment with no or minimal objects blocking the signal!

Use the latest drivers and firmware

It’s rare to find firmware for a router or driver for a network adapter that works perfectly right out of the gate. Most „V1“ drivers and firmwares of network equipment I have used were bad and came with all sorts of problems: slow connections, drop outs, missing features and other quirks. The first thing I always do when I get a new network device is: look for updates!

For example, when I bought my Linksys WUSB600N adapter it didn’t work (at all!) under the 64-bit-version of Windows 7. I actually bought the device and couldn’t use it for a couple of weeks until the manufacturer delivered an updated driver that worked under the x64 architecture.

Upgrading the firmware of your router has become somewhat easy over the past couple of years: Simply open up the firmware configuration page in your browser (see below) and find the „Firmware Upgrade“ page.

Here you will find direct links to drivers for some popular router manufacturers:

These links will you to the most recent Wi-Fi drivers available. Your wireless adaptor is not on the list? You haven’t found anything using popular search engines? Hit the comment section and provide us with the detailed specs of the Wi-Fi adaptor as shown in your device-manager.

 

Upgrade your Wi-Fi hardware

If you’re using the 802.11g (or even b/a) wireless standard, more bandwidth-related tasks such as video streaming, launching remote applications or file copy operations will be painfully slow. All three network standards provide a relatively low maximum bandwidth:

Theoretical speed

802.11 (1997) 2 MBps
802.11a (1999) 54 MBps (short range, high cost – mostly in business use)
802.11b (1999) 11 MBps (slower, but higher range than a)
802.11g (2002) 54 MBps (long signal range)
802.11n (2006) 300 MBps (through multiple channels and frequencies)
802.11ac (2012) 1 GBps (through multiple channels and frequencies)

As you can see, 802.11ac is the way to go these day– over the next couple of months, it’ll replaced the older 802.11a/b/g networks, and offers much improved speed, coverage and reliability. In general, 802.11n is at least twice as fast than its predessor “n” while promising theoretical speeds of up to 1000 Mbp/s.

If you’re suffering from a low network bandwidth, be sure to pick a router and Wi-Fi adapters that supports at least the 802.11n specification. If you bought a PC or laptop within the last couple of years, it’ll (very likely) have a 802.11ac wireless adapter. To go check, simply fire up Device-Manager…

…or take a look at your hardware specification sheet, for example:

If your adapter does not support 802.11n or ac but your router does, it’ll obviously use the lower N, G, B or even A modes. So make sure that all parts of your wireless chain are “n” compatible!

When shopping for a new network adapter or a router that supports 802.11ac, you should take the following three tips into consideration.

Pick a dedicated USB adapter:

Even if your laptop or desktop has a built-in 802.11ac adapter that is connected to a full-fledged 802.11n router, you might want to look into getting a dedicated (external) USB wireless adapter. Sounds ridiculous, but in my experience many external Wi-Fi adapters perform much better than built-in devices.

When I first got my Linksys WRT610N router, I got quite mixed results and only an average of 100-170 Mbps when the theoretical limit of this beast is around 300 Mbps. So I drank the cool-aid and ordered the adapter that, according to the manufacturer Linksys, “works best with” my router – the WUSB600N USB wireless adapter! And what a difference that made: Signal strength did not change, but the speed went up significantly. Here’s a screenshot of my laptop that’s using both the built-in Wi-fi chip as well as the external USB adapter to connect to the router:


The maximum speed meter went up from 130 Mbps to 300 Mbps. Of course, that is the peak value, but only with this little addition was I able to stream full-definition 1080p video across my apartment with no stuttering or delay whatsoever.

Stay in the family: Besides using external dedicated Wi-Fi devices, I’d also recommend to pick a router and the adapter from the same company. Now, that doesn’t mean that a Linksys router wouldn’t work with a Broadcom or D-Link network adapter, but it’s also my experience that you get the best-possible performance if you „stay in the family“. Now I know that this is what the manufacturer wants but in this case I’d go with it.

Use an external antenna for your router. You can significantly boost your Wi-Fi connection by replacing the antenna or add another external antenna. This guide as well as this one help you figure things out.

 

Change the Wi-Fi channel

All modern routers are capable of communicating to your PC or laptop on several different channels. However, if your neighbours Wi-Fi equipment is communicating on the same channel, your network speeds and reliability might suffer. Windows offers a built-in solution that lets you see on what channels all your surrounding Wi-Fi networks conmunicate. This is how it works:

Step 1 – Launch the command line. To do that, click on the Start orb, go to „All ProgramsAccessories“ and click on „Command Prompt“.

Step 2 – Type in the following command: netsh wlan show all.


Step 3 – You’ll see a large list of all wireless networks in your area.
Scroll through the list and watch out for the entry that says „Channel“. Out of those 7 networks, 4 are using channel 6 to send data, two use channel 5 and one is using channel 13.

This is why I should probably choose either a lower channel or a channel between 6 and 13.

Try changing the channel on the routers configuration page.

To open the page, you’ll usually enter it’s IP adress into your browser (check the manual to see which address you need to type in), for example http://192.168.1.1, and enter the user name and password you specified at setup – or the default credentials if you never specified it (which is potentially dangerous)!

Find your wireless channel settings. On my router, that’s under the “Wireless” tab right in the “Basic Wireless Settings” category:

Pick the channel that is not (or barely) used in your area. In my example, I choose channel 10. Reconnect all your devices and see if you’ve got better speed or if you’re reliability issues are fixed!
That was part 1 – look out for part 2 that’ll show you even more in-depth tricks to improve your wireless network speed!

AVG’s Top Blogs of 2014

2014 was a big year for the security industry and a busy one for AVG. There were high profile security breaches, some incredible new apps for our smartphones and huge game releases that pushed the performance of our devices to the limit.

 

Threats:

Heartbleed was arguably the most significant security story of the year after a crucial vulnerability was found in Open SSL, the technology used to encrypt data online. Potentially, OpenSSL estimate that as many as 66% of all websites were vulnerable.

Our blog post on how to stay safe from Heartbleed was our most popular post of the year and a follow up post later in June showing that many websites were still vulnerable comes in at number two.

One of the year’s most prevalent malware breakouts, known as GameOver Zeus was also amongst our top stories. GameOver Zeus picked up a lot of media coverage as experts gave a two week countdown until a massive suspected cyber-attack would be unleashed.

 

Mobile:

AVG had a big year for mobile with exclusive deals to protect Sony Xperia devices and we even created custom apps specifically designed for the Amazon Fire Phone’s ‘Dynamic Perspective’.

We also sealed the acquisition of Location Labs which has brought powerful security and device management features to millions of people.

In November, we release our first ever Android App Performance Report which detailed the secret ways that the apps we use can affect our smartphones. How much space they take up, how much battery they use and how much data they send.

 

Gaming:

Gaming also enjoyed a big year in 2014 with the release of many big name titles including Watch Dogs, where you play a hacker in a beautifully rendered open world. Our performance expert Sandro Villinger’s Ultimate Watch Dogs performance guide for the PC was our third most popular post this year.

Sandro also created a simple nine step guide to maximizing PC gaming performance which helped users of all abilities squeeze the most out their machines whether top of the range or 3 years old!

If you are a gamer, check out Sandro’s Ultimate performance guide to

Gaming looks set to have another big year in 2015, keep an eye out for Sandro’s GTA 5 performance review coming soon!

 

2014 was a great year at AVG and we’re looking forward to bringing you more big stories in 2015.

Happy New Year!

Improve your smartphone battery life with smart profiles

We’ve just released a new update to our AVG Cleaner for Android PRO.

In version 2.2.1 we’ve tweaked one of your favorite features, Battery Profiles, and now support Android L to help you clean up, speed up and especially boost battery life even better than before and on all the bleeding-edge devices out there.

 

So what’s new?

Despite that it started out as a cleaning app, we’ve made it a super-powerful tool to help you speed up and boost the battery life of your Android and even tell which apps drain your devices mobile data traffic, battery and storage. We’ve continued this tradition in our latest update even more.


Smarter Battery Savings with Battery Profiles

First and foremost, for the folks who love to improve battery life manually, we added a new button called “Choose Manual Settings” which puts you in charge of what features and built-in devices of your Android can drain your battery, such as Wi-Fi, Bluetooth, Mobile Data or the automatic synchronization of your files:

As you can see, we’ve also added new “On/Off” buttons to make it more clear what’s enabled and what’s not – the green indicator now shows you exactly how much battery life you can save with each tweak.

Plus, there’s a new profile called “Low Battery” which is available in the PRO version and kicks in when battery life hits a certain threshold, such as “20%” (you have to run it once and then set it up):

That’s super important when you’re nowhere near a power outlet and the phone is running on fumes. It saved my digital life more than once…

Overall, we’ve also made the “Profiles” easier to set up. Once you select a profile for the first time, such as “Car” (for when you’re on the road), we’ll walk you through what conditions and settings you can set up. In the example of car, I set it up so that AVG Cleaner for Android always disables Wi-Fi, auto-sync, screen rotation and screen time-out whenever it’s connected to the Bluetooth of my car:

That’s because I don’t need any Wi-Fi in my car. Plus, I’m using the phone as my GPS so I don’t want the screen rotating randomly or turning itself off after a while.

Download AVG Cleaner for Android now.

Three essential tips for new Android devices

Unfortunately, with today’s smartphones (which have the capacity and the feature-set of a high-end PC from about 10 years ago) it’s no longer a matter of popping in the SIM and using it.

There are a million things to watch out for and set up. In this week’s blog, we’ve compiled the three most useful steps you need to take besides running through the initial setup and downloading your favorite apps.

Sign into your Google Account:

One of the first things your new Android will ask you to do is sign into your Google account. Now, you could technically go without a Google account, but the benefits outweigh a lot of the worries some users have: once you sign in, it will back-up your phone’s settings, installed apps, account data and more – plus it allows you to purchase apps on the Google Play Store.

If you’re worried about privacy, simply create a new account and leave out information you don’t want to be shared with Google.

Google Sync

Get the latest update:

Most phones come with outdated software right out of the gate (as software continues to improve after devices come off the production line). We suggest checking for updates in your “Settings” app under “About device” (or similar).

Do the same for your apps so you don’t have to go into the Google Play store all the time. Go to Settings again and look for the “Auto-update apps” checkbox.

Software update

Get rid of preinstalled bloatware:

As we discovered last month in our AVG App Consumption report, one of the top reasons for battery drain, storage consumption and data traffic are the preinstalled apps on your phone.

We’ve actually made a free app, AVG Cleaner for Android, which lets you view the most draining apps on your phone and helps you get rid of them: Open it up and go to the App Uninstaller.

This will list all your currently running apps. If you tap on the little blue arrow in the top right, you can then sort the list by:

  • App Usage – how often you use each of your apps
  • Storage Usage – how much space your apps use
  • Battery Usage – how demanding each app is on your battery
  • Data Usage – the apps that send and receive the most data (to help avoid hitting your data plan limit)

Uninstall Bloatware